No full reviews this week from any of the city's major critics, but never fear: there's still plenty to hash over — including some things that were lost in the shadow of Thanksgiving.
First up, The Washingtonian staff revisits Mannequin Pis, Vermilion and PS 7's for some mini reviews. While Mannequin Pis was "underwhelming," the panel of reviewers (including Kliman, Ann Limpert and Anna Spiegel) say that PS 7's has stepped up its game and Vermilion is still consistently good: "We found comfort in a leek-and-potato soup with chili oil and smoked cod, swooned over a locally raised rib eye with salsa verde, and smiled at the slyness of a chowder turned into a solid—pearlescent cod dressed with bacon, potato, and celery leaves." [The Washingtonian]
Chris Shott offers his first impression of Elisir, focusing on the signature branzino carpaccio served in a cigar box: "Several bite-sized slices of seabass line the bottom of the serving tray, drizzled with a citrus dressing and topped with shaved mushrooms, pea tendrils and blood oranges. I enjoyed the combination of flavors—salty, sweet and a little peppery—but wondered whether the thing might be just a tad overdressed. The fish is really buried under all that stuff. It is altogether tasty, nonetheless." [WCP]
Last week, Todd Kliman added the newly opened Fishnet in College Park to the list of restaurants where he's eating now: "The fish is the thing—marvelously fresh, generously sliced, and carefully prepared. There are fish sticks, too, and they might be the best fish sticks you'll ever eat. The daily soup—made from trimmed bits, and built from a homemade stock—is a must-get. Excellent fries and coleslaw, too." [The Washingtonian]
Though places like Sundevich and Fast Gourmet get most of the sandwich press these days, Going Out Guru Alex Baldinger would like to remind you of Booeymonger: "A good sandwich never goes out of style — and although these may not be the most inventive creations, made of organic, local meats and cheeses — Booeymonger has understood that for almost 40 years." [WaPo]
Rina Rapuano reviews the brand new Chupacabra food truck for the Washington Post this week. The pumpkin vegan tacos are her favorites, though Rapuano notes that the tacos can taste dry without salsa. She also writes of Chupacabra: "Its name, shared with a mythical Latin American animal said to suck the blood of goats, embodies as much hipster irony as the tattooed owner who takes orders with a PBR apron slung around his waist." [WaPo]
THE BLOGS: EatMore DrinkMore files a rave for Toki Underground; District Cuisine finds a lot of promise in Pho Bar and Grill in spite of some early kinks; We Love DC samples the tasting menu at Casa Nonna's brand new Tavola 12; DC-Wrapped Dates tries brunch at Vinoteca; Florida Girl in DC is smitten Pearl Dive Oyster Palace in spite of herself; DMV Dining is a big fan of the burgers at Dino.