Tom Sietsema notes that Newton's Table mantra is "simple, done right" and, though the critic points out a few more "razzle dazzle" dishes on the menu, he concludes that it is, after all, simple done right — earning the new restaurant two stars. There are the entrees that entertain, like the filet mignon:
Here, the ubiquitous entree arrives beneath a golden dome of gaufrette potatoes. You have to lift or crack open the edible ornament to get to the tender, rosy meat and its ring of wilted spinach and soft artichokes. It's better than most steak presentations.
Then there are those that just please, like the gougeres that Sietsema says are as elegant as any he's sampled locally, the caramelized short ribs or the duck confit that "unites France with Mexico." And there's also the overly simple:
A few dishes at Newton's Table resemble the efforts of a competent home cook. The veal chop has size and a pink center to recommend it, but the halved Brussels sprouts filling out the plate lack seasoning. Moist roast chicken gets a little lift from its garlicky spinach and spoon bread, but it's the least interesting of the second acts.
But if the goal here was good, simple food, Sietsema declares that particular mission accomplished. [WaPo]
Todd Kliman says he had his doubts about Crush Wine House as a wine bar with compelling food, given its menu sporting ribs and blackened tuna that "sounded like the sort of thing you expect to find these days at an Applebee's." But first impressions aren't everything and the critic seems pleased with the execution of both dishes, concluding: "Annapolis is a haul for many Washingtonians, and there are, of course, wine bars galore in and around DC. But this one's better than most, and worth a drive out in good weather. Especially if you're looking to dine as well as drink."
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Newton's Table [Photo: Facebook]