Yesterday brought the discovery that Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema snagged a reservation for RJ Cooper's Rogue 24 on its second night of service — after telling the City Paper's Chris Shott that he's "not big on going the first night, when the paint is still drying." But, as Sietsema had also told Shott, the First Bite column serves as a lovely loophole to the normal rules by being more of a preview than a review. And this week that column just so happens to feature, you guessed it, Rogue 24. That was fast.
Sietsema opted for the 24-course "Journey" menu on his maiden visit and gives a glimpse into what you might expect from an eventual formal review. The Sea Floor dish is a "tiny treasure" and the open kitchen sends out "an intense riff on vichyssoise." Several other dishes receive similar praise, but the critic is also practical, declaring that "Rogue 24 won't be for everyone. I wouldn't recommend the place for a blind date or a meat-and-potatoes sensibility." And — now this is meta — he also questions the need for rules: "Instructions for some dishes, including a single radish on a brush stroke of butter that is supposed to be swiped from its bowl with your fingers, are ridiculous."
· Rogue 24 First Bite Review [WaPo]
· All Previous Rogue 24 Coverage [-EDC-]