Tom Sietsema is Wowed by The Partisan's Charcuterie

Consider Tom Sietsema a fan of The Partisan. The critic pens a favorable 2.5 star review of Neighborhood Restaurant's Group restaurant devoted to all things meat. He enjoys adventurous dishes like the pig's head and the offal-focused bollito misto.

I walked into the Partisan thinking I'd already had my fill of charcuterie, at least in Washington, where every other new restaurant feels an obligation to put sliced sausages on its menu. I left the place thankful for a craftsman such as Anda and a restaurant that not only grasps the meat of the matter, but also makes this city a richer place to eat.

Sietsema also swings by the new Ben's Chili Bowl in Arlington and is clearly none too enamored with the food. "Frankly, and no matter where you try it, Ben's dark chili sauce is akin to Hormel's, only thinner and zestier. I much prefer some of the sides to the main attractions...'Everybody Loves Ben's!' reads a sign in the Arlington outpost. Everybody might, but not necessarily for the links that made the institution, next poised to fly into Reagan National Airport, famous. Some of us prefer Ben's for its historical flavor." [WaPo]

The $20 Diner tries the chicken at Sardi's. Tim Carman writes, "
After numerous visits to the Takoma Park location, I feel confident in saying that this Sardi's outlet produces some of the best Peruvian chicken around — and some of the most inconsistent." [WaPo]

Todd Kliman reviews Greek restaurant Trapezaria this week, which is a hit for carnivores and herbivores alike.

If vegetarians aren't made uneasy by the strapping platters of meats being ferried throughout the room all night, they ought to revel over their options. There are stuffed grape leaves made without the beef, and the subtraction is hardly a loss—the leaves have a nice, vegetal bite to them. Imam bayildi, a Turkish dish, is an appetizer here, but the preparation of tender, roasted eggplant, doused in sweet, garlicky tomato sauce and subtly perfumed with cinnamon, is enormous. [WaPo]

Bethesda Magazine takes an early look at 4935 Kitchen.

For main courses, don't miss the brined Tandoori pork chop—assertively spiced on the outside, juicy on the inside, it goes well with the accompanying crushed sweet potatoes and earthy dandelion greens. Side dishes are worth a go—I like Alfred's take on palak paneer, his Tandoori grilled corn on the cob, and the four-cheese macaroni and cheese strewn with fresh spinach leaves.

Northern Virginia Magazine reviews Italian restaurant Trattoria Villagio. "While the space feels cozy, mangers and hosts wear headsets, making it look more like Cheesecake Factory than a spot in downtown Clifton. But some of the dishes buck the chain mentality." [NoVa Mag]

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