Tom Sietsema puts restaurants aside for the moment and reviews Bread Furst, from James Beard nominee Mark Furstenberg. The result is 2.5 stars.
"Bakeries aren't my normal review subjects," the critic writes, disclosing that Furstenberg is a friend of his. "Bakeries of the caliber of the 30-seat Bread Furst, introduced last May, come along only rarely, however. Forgive me for wanting to spread the word about a roll model."
Sietsema singles out the bakery's bagels, empanadas, baguettes and barbecue chicken, though he notes the bakery isn't particularly efficient. [WaPo]
Tim Carman decides, for some reason, to review the biscuit breakfast tacos at Taco Bell. He's kind of a fan, though the sandwich has its flaws.
Nonetheless, after busting through three biscuit tacos, I've decided the sandwich needs more R&D. The problem lies with the buttermilk biscuit shell, which is supposed to hold your desired ingredients in place but breaks apart like, well, a buttermilk biscuit. However Taco Bell manipulates the ingredients to create its bendy biscuits, the research team needs to rethink the formula. The biscuit never holds. Maybe they're aiming for the impossible: a flaky biscuit that folds like a New York slice? [WaPo]
The critic's $20 Diner column last week also focused on such junk food favorites as 7-Eleven taquitos and Krispy Kreme doughnuts. [WaPo]
Stefanie Gans takes a visit to Leesburg Public House. There, craft beers and fancier food than expected await.
In fact, the restaurant itself is a delight. It’s buzzing, whether it’s lunch, weeknight dinner or a Saturday night where the wait can last over an hour. The space feels modern in that mason jar-chic aesthetic: paint-chipped wood, exposed brick, dim drop lighting and, of course, water served in mason jars. It’s comfortable, too, with cozy booths and tables for large gatherings.
Bacon popcorn and fettucine are among the winners; some ambitious dishes fall flat. [NoVa Mag]
Tyler Cowen files reviews of House of Mandi and Sushi Capitol. Of the latter, he writes, "This little gem is one of the two or three best sushi places in town and it does everything very well, including service. Get the Omikase, for only $50, a bargain by the standards of quality sushi. Definitely recommended, but you do need to book in advance." [TC]