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Tom Sietsema Enjoys Slash Run's Juicy Lucy

Plus reviews of Beefsteak and more.

Beefsteak
Beefsteak
R. Lopez

In his First Bite column for the Washington Post, Tom Sietsema visits Slash Run in Petworth. He tries the beer and burger focused menu at the hair metal bar just opened by restaurateurs Jackie Greenbaum and Gordon Banks. Sietsema writes:

"Adam Harvey, the chef at Jackie's, Greenbaum's creative American restaurant in Silver Spring,  clearly had some fun creating Slash Run's sandwich-driven menu, which kicks off with forgettable hummus, crisp fritters that taste like one-bite Cubanos ... and meaty wings... His marinade of habanero, jalapeño, honey, allspice and juniper prompts tears, but also mixes pleasure with pain."

Not every dish is a total success, but Sietsema manages hold it to simple, pub-fare standards. He does make several suggestions to diners though. Cheese lovers should order the Juicy Lucy, which is a burger stuffed with cheddar and American cheese. He also suggests ordering the salad as a side for your sandwich instead of the mediocre waffle chips.

Also reviewed by Sietsema: Beefsteak from chef José Andrés, which he awards two stars. Though he isn't a fan of the "Naked" bowl, just about everything else appeals to him, including several other combinations and the summer special tomato burger.

The mixes and matches are limitless if you choose from any given day’s field of ingredients. Several house favorites make decision-making easier. Consider "Frida Kale," rice and kale that get some kick from a zesty tomato sauce and black bean sauce and some crunch from pumpkin seeds and corn nuts. There are scallions, cranberries and cherry tomatoes as well, everything bound with a dressing of honey and lemon." [WaPo]

Todd Kliman reviews All Set in Washingtonian, a New England-inspired addition to Silver Spring. Clam chowder and frito misto are among the highlights. The restaurant isn't cheap, though.

All these plates command top dollar, their prices in line with power haunts in downtown DC. Is this a way of signaling that the restaurant intends to compete regionally and not just locally? It would appear so. The question is whether Silver Spring can sustain a high-priced restaurant until, or if, the rest of the area comes calling. All Set is promising—I wish it well. I just hope it realizes that looking the part of the big time and playing the part of the big time are not as important as taking care of the little things that pave the road to the big time. [Washingtonian]

No $20 column yet this week, but Tim Carman is soliciting tips for places he should highlight. [WaPo]

THE BLOGS: Best Thing on the Menu tries arepas at The Royal...Bitches Who Brunch highlight great D.C. waffles.

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