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Tom Sietsema Loves Everything About Kinship in Shaw

Plus, reviews of Marble & Rye and Drift on 7th

R. Lopez

For his full review in the Washington Post, Tom Sietsema tries Kinship. He awards chef Eric Ziebold’s new restaurant three stars. He loves just about every detail from the service, decor, and noise level. About the food, he writes:

"Eating… reveals a more playful side to the talented but earnest chef I remember from CityZen. If spring hasn’t nudged it off the menu by the time you read this, Ziebold’s torchon of white mushrooms… should be on your itinerary. The beige round, displayed on brushstrokes of huckleberry gastrique, looks like a classic foie gras torchon but uses mushrooms, butter and caramelized onions and garlic to achieve the look, and eerily similar taste, of duck liver. A smear of the torchon on toasted brioche, followed by a bite of pickled mushroom and celery root salad, almost transmits music, the rich notes followed by bells."

All of Ziebold’s food is seasoned perfectly but the critic particularly recommends the veal sweetbreads, lobster French toast, roast chicken, and Dover sole.  He also says dessert should not be missed. [WaPo]

Tim Carman heads to Buredo for his $20 Diner column in The Washington Post. Though he says he doesn't "know how to classify the food" there, he's into the sushi rolls that seem to mimic Chipotle-style stuffed burritos. He writes:

"The ingredients — slender matchsticks of carrot, leaves of pickled cabbage, pudgy wedges of avocado, golden tubes of tempura shrimp — are piled so high, I have no idea how the guy behind the counter will squeeze it into the modest square of nori covered with seasoned rice. It seems like a circus trick: the sushi burrito as clown car." [WaPo]

Laura Hayes dines at Marble & Rye for the First Taste column in Arlington Magazine. She tries and likes an array of appetizers, along with the Pear & Bleu pizza with with Bosc pears, bleu cheese, caramelized onions and a honey drizzle. She writes of the rest of the menu:

"Meat eaters won’t miss out with burgers, a hangar steak and a filet mignon on offer. We sampled the bison burger with a bourbon glaze, topped with Swiss cheese, caramelized vegetables and red pepper aioli. Unfortunately, the fact that the lean meat is sourced locally (from Maryland) didn't keep the burger from drying out. Opt instead for the "Chef’s Burger," made with Virginia’s Seven Hills beef, for optimal juiciness."

Although it will never be a destination restaurant, she urges neighborhood people to try it out for their reasonable prices, ample parking, dog-friendly outdoor tables, and beverage selection. [Arlington]

Don Rockwell is back after a hiatus. He was inspired to write again after a recent trip to Drift on 7th. He tries chef Ferhat Falcon’s bouillabaisse, seared sardines, fish chowder, and lobster bisque. He writes:

Drift on 7th is a winning restaurant, and the only thing that will prevent it from succeeding is if it doesn’t get the publicity it deserves. I’ve been absent from the critic scene for over six weeks, and this wonderful seafood restaurant...was enough to inspire me to get back into writing. I can honestly say that if this was anywhere near my neighborhood, I would eat here two, maybe three, times a week – even living where I live, I plan on being a regular customer here." [DR]

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