clock menu more-arrow no yes mobile

Filed under:

Tom Sietsema Likes the Changes at Mulebone

Plus, reviews of Inferno Pizzeria, Kapnos Kouzina, the Requin pop-up, and more


Tom Sietsema dines at Mulebone for his full review in the Washington Post. He awards the restaurant two stars. The critic like the changes afoot at this new incarnation of Eatonville, including the decor upgrades. He credits new chef Joseph Paire with improving the food. He writes:

"The chef does to catfish what many of his brethren do to chicken: slice the white flesh into strips and fry them into "tenders." But Paire’s appetizer rockets to the moon, thanks to a barely there cornmeal sheath and a steamy center whose cayenne and paprika marinade adds a nip to every tuck (of the fork)."

Sietsema also recommends the black-eyed pea fritters and kale salad with fried oysters. He and his dining companion also like the fried chicken but could do without the honey glaze. [WaPo]

David Hagedorn files a review of Inferno Pizzeria for Bethesda Magazine. He finds sophistication and refinement within a strip mall at chef Tony Conte's restaurant in Gaithersburg. He particularly enjoys the salads like burrata with persimmons and roasted sunchokes with smoked hazelnuts. He writes of the pizzas:

"Inferno’s 11-inch, thin, crisp-bottomed pies bear the hallmark air bubble blisters of Neapolitan dough. I would prefer the pies had more blisters and were less brown, but that didn’t stop me from eating every bit every time.

Top-notch toppings outfit all the pizzas. The standouts: the Prosciutto (di Parma) with tomatoes, arugula and buffalo mozzarella; the Funghi Misti (with beech, cremini, hen-of-the-wood mushrooms) topped with smoked, mozzarella-like scamorza cheese and garlic-bacon oil; and the cheese-rich Pizza Bianca with flecks of white truffles—$23 and worth it." [Bethesda]

Also for Bethesda Magazine, Laura Hayes goes to Mike Isabella's newest restaurant for the First Taste column. Overall, the Greek cooking by chef George Pagonis is a success. She writes:

"The menu opens with a deep bench of spreads served with flatbread before moving into sharable "mezze" starters in cold, garden and ocean categories. Consider opening with smoky wild mushroom couscous or a grilled avocado-embellished tuna tartare. If you opt for the cheese saganaki, hold on to a few strips of flatbread served with the dips. The baked cheese comes out bubbling hot, but without bread to offset its richness."

Other menu highlights include the smoked lamb flatbread, mushroom moussaka, and fried chicken served with a side of burnt honey harissa. [Bethesda]

Don Rockwell tries the Requin pop-up in Mosaic District. He’s satisfied with dishes like lobster ravioli and roast chicken with vegetable sides. But he takes issue with other aspects of the experience. He writes:

"So flavor-wise, we batted three-for-three at Requin (which means "shark" in French). It was the little things – the menu, the bread, the temperature, the dinnerware – that ratcheted this meal down a few notches, and if you go, make *sure* you bring up these four things *before* you order: get the garlic bread, not the crostini; make sure they know you want the items hot (if you do); ask for large dinner plates; and ask that your silverware be changed in-between courses." [DR]

Rockwell also stops by Takumi again. After trying 10 piece of nigiri and a maki roll, he declares the Falls Church sushi bar the best in Northern Virginia. [DR]

Tyler Cowen goes to Soju Saranag in Annandale. The Korean spot serves sushi and sashimi, along with Korean soups and stews. He writes:

"It’s actually one of the very best raw fish places around outside of the expensive sushi restaurants in DC. Many people turn their noses up at the idea of Korean sushi and sashimi, but the servings here taste very good. If you are looking to shell out $100 for a large and impressive plate of sashimi, and wash it down with beer, this is the place to go." [TC]

THE BLOGS: Hungry Travelist welcomes Kyirisan to the neighborhood...Cocktail Amateur has a fun evening at Espita Mezcaleria...Blue Duck Tavern doesn't disappoint Bitches Who Brunch

Sign up for the newsletter Sign up for the Eater DC newsletter

The freshest news from the local food world