Brent Kroll, the wine guru who has bolstered local beverage programs from now-defunct Bardeo to 10-year-old Proof, is finally doing things his way at new arrival Maxwell Park, the neighborhood wine bar he’s established with the help of two fellow sommeliers and a former boss.
Kroll is joined in this latest venture, which is opening in Shaw at 5 p.m. on Monday, by Fat Baby, Inc., president (he owns Proof) turned Maxwell Park co-founder Max Kuller. Anyone visiting the 33-seat bar should expect to rub elbows with Kroll or his newly minted partners, Voltaggio Brothers Steak House alum Niki Lang and Iron Gate vet Daniel Runnerstrom.
An opening theme of “anything but pinot grigio” showcases Italian whites other than the supermarket staple. The temperature-controlled pours — “This is the only place I’ve ever worked where the by-the-glass wines are kept in four different temperature-controlled zones,” Kroll said, citing selections (see below) presented from a chilly 45 degrees to more moderate 60 degrees — are divided into categories including: light, three shades of medium (from mildly fruity to “textural”), and full. A separate by-the-glass roster — which Kroll said would serve as the core menu — features sparkling wines, some off-whites (rose, pinot gris), reds, and dessert offerings.
His plan is to rotate roughly half of the featured offerings every few weeks. The theme for next month is non-Champagne sparklers. September promises to usher in wines bearing “skin contact” (the master wine list features orange wines from the Republic of Georgia and Slovenia). “We want regulars to be able to come in and get a new experience each time,” Kroll said.
Non-wine drinkers can explore bottled cocktails (gin and tonic; a cognac-fruit shrub creation) as well as a half dozen beers (some sour) and ciders. Kroll said he’s excited for folks to try his contribution, a peanut-spiked rum- and dill drink inspired by a meal he had at one of celebrity chef Marcus Samuelsson’s restaurants in New York. “I hope people will get into savory cocktails,” Kroll said.
The food, developed by chef Tony Conte, who last worked with Kroll at the Oval Room, is mostly bar snacks (spicy olives, charcuterie, beet tartare with mango, chili, and lime).
Maxwell Park DC ABPG list by Eater.com on Scribd
Maxwell Park DC opening BTG list by Eater.com on Scribd
Maxwell Park DC opening food menu by Eater.com on Scribd
Maxwell Park is expected to operate from 5 p.m. to midnight, Sunday through Thursday, and from 5 p.m. to 1 a.m., Friday and Saturday. Seating is first-come, first-serve; look for additional spots on the pet-friendly, 20-seat patio.
Status: Opening at 5 p.m. 1336 Ninth Street NW; website.