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Tom Sietsema Declares the Salt Line ‘A Win for Washington’

What the critics are saying this week

The waterfront-facing bar at the Salt Line.
Photo: Salt Line

The Salt Line

Washington Post restaurant critic Tom Sietsema adorns Navy Yard newcomer Salt Line — the fish house that “doesn’t overdress for success” — with three stars (“excellent”) this week. Chef Kyle Bailey creates hits out of sea creatures, such as a charcuterie spread of smoked arctic char, swordfish mortadella, and smoked whitefish salad; skin-on rockfish; and “Nashville hot” soft-shell crabs. The “uncommon” seafood restaurant next to Nationals Park also manages to deliver some meaty accomplishments. Go with the “delicious mess” of a burger with griddle-seared patties, or the “thick and rosy” rib-eye, Sietsema says. Meanwhile, cocktails are as good as the ones traditionally found downtown. Save room for dessert from “pastry ace” Tiffany MacIsaac of Buttercream Bakeshop fame.


La Limena Grill

Sietsema also visits restaurateur Emma Perez’s second Peruvian restaurant in Rockville, Maryland, which is fancier than the first and features additional seating. The “expansive” South American grill boasts a ceviche that doubles as a hangover cure, packed with leche de tigre, bits of tilapia, lime juice, onions and chiles served in a martini glass. He recommends the pastel de choclo con carne — a “pie” of corn layered over steak tips, and presented in a small red casserole — and a carb-heavy stew of squash, potatoes, and corn ringed with shrimp. A happy ending comes in the form of gratis button-size alfajores, anise cookies sandwiched with light caramel.


Booze News

Washington Post contributor Holley Simmons name drops some of the best sangrias to sip on before the summer ends. Vinoteca’s crisp version uses rosé made from tempranillo grapes, while Joselito’s off-menu sangria features an ice cube made with hunks of frozen fruit “so your drink gets more flavorful — not diluted — as you sip.” Versions of the summery classic at Arroz, Tico, and Barcelona also made the cut.


Tortas y Tacos La Chiquita

Tyler Cowen’s Ethnic Dining Guide investigates food truck-turned-storefront Tortas y Tacos La Chiquita in Arlington, Virginia, which he declares “the best Mexican place and tacqueria in Northern Virginia.” He thinks the tacos are consistent in quality, and his favorite is the carnitas. Fan of spicy? Go with the cheese-filled green peppers snack.


FROM THE BLOGS: Rick Eats DC checks out Peking Gourmet Inn in Falls Church, Virginia, while Bitches Who Brunch check out the weekend buffet at the National Gallery of Art’s Garden Cafe.

Joselito Casa de Comidas

660 Pennsylvania Ave. SE, Washington, DC, DC 20003

Barcelona Wine Bar 14th Street

1622 14th Street Northwest, , DC 20009 (202) 588-5500 Visit Website

Arroz

901 Massachusetts Ave. NW, Washington, D.C. 20001 (202) 869-3300 Visit Website

Tico DC

1926 14th Street Northwest, , DC 20009 (202) 319-1400 Visit Website

The Salt Line

79 Potomac Avenue Southeast, , DC 20003 (202) 506-2368 Visit Website

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