WaPo Critic Declares Multi-Cuisine Pom Pom a Delicious Replacement for Himitsu

Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema visited Pom Pom in Petworth for his First Bite column this week, declaring that the reinvented shared plates restaurant in the old Himitsu space a “different, delicious” restaurant in its own right.

With Himitsu founding partner and beverage director playing a bigger role in a “multi-cuisine” menu, Sietsema singles out her influence in a hamachi crudo encircled by Middle Eastern components like labneh, za’atar, and zhug.

“Garnishes of preserved lemon and crimson pomegranate seeds make for explosive eating,” the critic writes. “Suffice it to say, the combination isn’t shy.”

Sietsema calls a duck dish prepared two ways the “grandest” dish on the menu, pointing to duck pho as a “rousing dip,” but also finds his lone criticism on the plate. He liked the fried dark meat more than the roasted breast and wished that a side of carrot kimchi “hadn’t tasted more of salt than fermentation.”

Steiner’s former partner at Himitsu, Kevin Tien, opened his solo place, Emilie’s, in Capitol Hill last week.

Other reviews

• Sietsema gives Via Sophia two stars, applauding the new Italian restaurant in the Hamilton hotel for its pastas and unorthodox touches but dinging it for inconsistency [WaPo]
• The Post’s Tim Carman enjoys himself at Tex-Mex newcomer Republic Cantina, forgiving most innovations to the regional comfort food [WaPo]
• Washingtonian critic Ann Limpert orders readers to order the samosa chips and vindaloo-glazed fried shrimp at Commonwealth Indian in Rockville [W]