Tom Sietsema Calls Fiola ‘One of the Most Indulgent Restaurants in Town’

Washington Post critic Tom Sietsema handed out another rare three-star review (excellent) in this week’s column to Fiola, doling out lavish compliments like “one bite is not enough” to the Italian fine dining restaurant. But there’s a decent amount of griping along with the coveted three-star rating. It almost seems to be an open letter to chef Fabio Trabocchi, who Sietsema says is closing Fiola at the end of June for a multi-month refresh to make it even more luxurious by October.

Fiola is already very luxe, as Sietsema discovered when he dined at both the Ezio Room, where diners can order off an a la carte menu, and the main dining room’s $220 “Grand Tasting Menu,” which really lives up to its name.

“Fiola is one of the most indulgent restaurants in town,” Sietsema writes.

While he swoons for individual dishes on the tasting menu like lobster ravioli and lightly seared foie gras, the cumulative effect of the seven courses is a lot. “I’m half-tempted to raise my napkin and signal surrender,” he says when Veal Rossini arrives at the table.

“I can’t be the only diner who would love to see in the future Fiola more vegetables and a lighter, tighter approach here and there,” Sietsema writes to conclude his review as he compares both Fiola experiences. “Already, [Chef Trabocchi’s] team’s cooking is great in small doses. Some trims might lead to better concentration — more gratefulness — in the dining room. Having done both this season, I’d much rather float out than roll out.”

• At Fiola, less could be even more [WaPo]
• All Week in Reviews [EDC]