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The Pampagana course features a tart of hamachi, red ninja radish, nori alongside fried potato topped with Roseda Farm beef and Castelvetrano olives.
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A Fancy Filipino Restaurant Rises on H Street

Hiraya’s anticipated tasting room works with A5 wagyu, shaved black truffles, and foie gras

Tierney Plumb is the editor of Eater DC, covering all things food and drink around the nation's capital.

Nearly four months after bringing H Street a leafy, all-day destination for vibrant rainbow lattes, Filipino pastries, breakfast sandwiches, and duck adobo, Hiraya is ready to show off its polished prix fixe counterpart that’s been cooking up top.

Hiraya Restaurant & Bar, situated one level above the casual cafe component, opened on Friday, January 20 with twice-a-night seatings. The newly capped-off project (1248-1250 H Street NE) builds upon the success of Filipino chef Paolo Dungca’s tasting pad that got its start in downtown’s Block food hall.

Opt for either a 5-course menu ($95 per person) or 7-course option ($145). The latter, which promises some added surprises, is exclusively served at an 8-seat chef’s counter.

Kutsinta (Kaluga caviar. creme fraiche. chives); cassava cake, and buchi buchi (foie gras, chestnut, sesame).
Lair Collective

The ambitious dining room along the Northeast strip continues to tell Dungca’s story of growing up in the Philippines and the recipes he learned from his mom, aunts, and grandparents along the way — with some modern interpretations sprinkled in.

The luxe meal kicks off with ongoing courses like foie gras-filled dumplings and cassava cake topped with smoked trout roe and crab fat. Rotating highlights strive to turn traditional Filipino fare on its head. Bistek gets an upgrade with A5 wagyu, cippolini onions, and black garlic. Other openers include ginataan-style Maine scallops finished with black truffle shavings and caramelized coconut and nata de coco, a jelly-like compilation of squid, squid ink, coconut, and finger lime. The sari-saring pato course presents duck multiple ways, as a dumpling, stuffed wing, and aged breast and leg confit with black garlic adobo.

Kabibi at Ginataan (Maine scallops, black truffle, caramelized coconut).
Lair Collective
Morcon Pithivier (Roseda Farms beef, lap xuong, smoked tomato).
Lair Collective

Dinner service upstairs runs 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Hiraya Cafe operates from 8 a.m. to 9 p.m. Reserve a seat online.

For Hiraya 2.0, Dungca partners with Juan and Jeremy Canlas — the father-son duo behind local chain Supreme Barbeque and Auntea Boba. Dungca also teamed up with the Canlases to open Sari Filipino Kusina, a fast-casual comfort food spot in Annandale serving Filipino-style barbecue and bowls.

The 58-seat restaurant plays up lots of wood elements and rattan tones that remind chef Paolo Dungca of home.
Lair Collective
The sleek restaurant overlooks H Street NE below.
Lair Collective

Dungca hails from the city of San Fernando in the Pampanga province northwest of Manila and migrated to Los Angeles with his family when he was 13. After moving to D.C. in 2014, he quickly worked his way up the ladder at some of D.C.’s most influential restaurants (Vidalia, Bad Saint, Restaurant Eve, and Kaliwa, and ABC Pony).

Hiraya’s culinary dream team includes executive chef Julie Cortes, who worked with Dungca at Wharf’s Southeast Asian hotspot Kaliwa, and fellow Pogiboy alum Carlos Lorenzo Rufo. Newly named beverage director and general manager Chris Walker formerly worked at Preserve and Garten in Annapolis.

A tabeside pour of squid ink.
Rey Lopez for Hiraya
The nata de coco course.
Lair Collective

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