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Eater 38

The 38 Essential Washington Restaurants, October 2014

Where to eat: choices for just about every neighborhood and every cuisine.

by Eater Staff Oct 7, 2014, 1:00pm EDT

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Eater 38

by Eater Staff Oct 7, 2014, 1:00pm EDT

It's time to update the Eater 38, your answer and ours to any question that begins, "Can you recommend a restaurant?" This highly elite group covers the entire city and surrounding areas, spans myriad cuisines and budgets, and collectively satisfies all of your restaurant needs, except for those occasions when you absolutely must spend half a paycheck. Every couple of months, we'll be adding pertinent restaurants that were omitted, have newly become eligible (restaurants must be open at least six months), or have stepped up their game.

This time around, additions include U Street standout Compass Rose, Tim Ma's Water & Wall, New York import Osteria Morini, Neighborhood Restaurant Group's meat temple The Partisan, and the whiskey-centric Jack Rose, where a new chef is crafting food to match the drinks. To make room, it's time to say goodbye (at least for now) to Maple Ave, Pearl Dive, Ray's the Steaks, Blue Duck Tavern and Cashion's Eat Place.

Rather than a stage-4 meltdown over our having excluded your favorite restaurant from the list, wouldn't it be more productive to just nominate it for inclusion? Share your choices in the comment, keeping in mind the list's parameters.

April 2013: Added Little Serow, Cork Wine Bar, 2941

July 2013: Added DGS Delicatessen, Cashion's Eat Place

October 2013: Added Daikaya, Izakaya Seki, Pupatella

January 2014: Added The Red Hen, Le Diplomate, Ripple

April 2014: Added Kapnos, DGS Delicatessen, Maple Ave., Pizzeria Orso, Ruan Thai, Rose's Luxury

July 2014: Added Graffiato, Iron Gate

October 2014: Added Compass Rose, Osteria Morini, Water & Wall, The Partisan and Jack Rose

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Rasika

Rasika is not just one of the most popular Indian restaurants in DC — it's also, quite plainly, one of the most popular restaurants in DC, period. Chef Vikram Sunderam (formerly of London's Bombay Brasserie) mans the kitchen at the Penn Quarter restaurant, where he takes a modern look at traditional Indian fare with favorites like the crispy palak chaat, flavorful curries and more.

633 D St NW, Washington, D.C. 20004

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Estadio

Estadio has been a major player in D.C.'s Spanish food scene since opened under the direction of Proof executive chef Haidar Karoum. The contemporary small plates menu boasts a strong selection of cheese and charcuterie, as well as pintxos, bocadillos and classic tapas dishes.

1520 14th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20002

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Toki Underground

Sure, it's not easy to score a seat at Erik Bruner-Yang's tiny ramen shop on H Street, but grabbing drinks downstairs first makes for a totally reasonable wait. And it's worth the wait for a bowl of the Taiwanese-style ramen that includes varieties like curry chicken and kimchi. Dumplings here are also worth a try.

1234 H St NE, Washington, D.C. 20002

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Proof

Proof is best known for its stellar wine program, but that's not the only reason it has become a neighborhood staple. The cheese and charcuterie selections are outstanding, as is the modern American menu from chef Haidar Karoum. The restaurant also has a hard-to-beat lunch deal in the bar that includes a glass of wine.

775 G St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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Hill Country Barbecue Market

Hill Country is Texas barbecue by way of New York City, where you'll find the original restaurant. Try the moist brisket, the sausages imported from Kreuz Market or any variety of sides from this cafeteria-style restaurant and settle into the dining room or the even noisier basement Boot Bar. Most nights of the week bring live music and cheap pitchers of Shiner.

410 7th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20004

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Ben's Chili Bowl

Ben's Chili Bowl is one of those rare Washington establishments that manages to be both a tourist trap and a local favorite. Lines can wrap around the corner during peak tourist scenes, but also late-night when locals stop in for the eatery's signature half-smokes. It doesn't hurt that Bill Cosby and President Obama are both patrons.

1213 U St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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Hank's Oyster Bar

Jamie Leeds hit it big in Dupont Circle with the opening of Hank's Oyster Bar. The seafood restaurant offers New England-style classics like lobster rolls, po' boys, lobster bisque and oysters on the half shell from the ice bar. Hank's has since opened up locations in Alexandria and Capitol Hill, and has expanded its original Dupont location (the cocktail program at the Capitol Hill location is particularly strong).

1624 Q St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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Room 11

This Columbia Heights wine bar remains as iconic to the neighborhood as ever. The menu features a small selection of plates meant to be shared — rock shrimp risotto, slow-roasted pork belly and more — but Room 11 really shines in its wine list and mixology program. The restaurant had a recent hit with its Taco Choco dessert.

3234 11th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20010

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Zaytinya

This Jose Andres restaurant may be even more popular than his flagship Jaleo. It's hard to go wrong with the ever-changing menu of Mediterranean dishes. The buzzy restaurant has delicious brussels sprouts, flatbread and octopus small plates, and a number of fun festivals throughout the year.

701 9th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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Central Michel Richard

It can be pricey, but Central is Michel Richard's version of accessible. The menu boasts two much-discussed dishes that are the French chef's spin on classic American comfort food: a lobster burger and a bucket of fried chicken (which is available to-go, by the way).

1001 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20004

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The Source by Wolfgang Puck

This Wolfgang Puck restaurant is on the pricier edge of the spectrum, but between executive chef Scott Drewno's talents and the approachable brunch and lounge menus, the Source is a keeper. Sit downstairs in the sleek bar and lounge and order off a menu that includes sushi, dumplings, pork belly buns, sake and craft beer.

575 Pennsylvania Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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BlackSalt

This Palisades restaurant is perhaps the most beloved in Jeff and Barbara Black's expansive empire. And like the others, it is a monument to seafood — and with its own fish market to boot. Oysters, blue shell mussels, fried Ipswich clams and more join entrees like bouillabaisse, skate wing and smoked toro dashi to pretty much cover the gamut of seafood.

4883 MacArthur Blvd NW, Washington, D.C. 20007

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Little Serow

Getting into Little Serow can be a challenge — lines for Johnny Moni's "no reservations" restaurant tend to start forming before opening — but the payoff is worth the wait. The chef prepares fiery, authentic Thai cuisine in a spare and stylish setting. At $45 per person for a multi-course, ever-changing menu, Little Serow provides a more affordable alternative to the chef's neighboring destination restaurant, Komi.

1511 17th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20036

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Pho 75

Rosslyn's Pho 75 is one of the region's Vietnamese restaurants where you're most likely to find expats supping on the the classic beef noodle soup. The cash-only cafeteria-style restaurant has other regional branches, but the Arlington location has been a local favorite for decades.

1721 Wilson Blvd, Arlington, VA 22209

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Cork

The neighborhood wine bar from Diane Gross and Khalid Pitts has taken a more seasonal approach to its well-edited menu of small plates in recent months. But familiar favorites, such as the avocado bruschetta and crispy lemon and black pepper-dusted calamari and rock shrimp, remain. The restaurant is known for its wine list, and the rotating, curated flights are a good opportunity to sample some of the more usual selections from it.

1720 14th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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Bombay Club

Ashok Bajaj's Bombay Club is one of those classic, old school DC restaurants that has been a favorite among politicians for ages. But unlike some of the city's classic steakhouses, you won't find a dated menu or indifferent service at Bombay Club. The restaurant serves up a stellar brunch buffet, properly made Manhattans and traditional Indian fare such as lamb roganjosh. The thali platters are a good way to sample a variety of dishes. And there's even a piano player in the evening.

815 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20006

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Jaleo

A fixture of the DC culinary scene for about 20 years, Jaleo underwent a flashy renovation filled with foosball tables and private nooks. But the classic tapas fare is as iconic as ever. Complement a glass of sangria with Ibérico ham, patatas bravas, croquetas served in a shoe and, of course, a variety of paellas served in pans that feed six people or more.

480 7th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20004

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Izakaya Seki

The underrated Izakaya Seki puts out some of the best raw fish in the area. Under the direction of chef and co-owner Hiroshi Seki, the restaurant features adventurous dishes like beef tongue, Japanese classics like kara-age and a number of accompaniments to its fine sake selection.

1117 V St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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Mintwood Place

Mintwood Place has established itself both as a neighborhood favorite and a larger draw for Cedric Maupillier's French-inspired cooking. Escargot hush puppies are a no brainer, and the brunch menu has some hits such as the "hangover special", where a hamburger, several cheeses, hot peppers, bacon, and a fried egg all come together in harmony.

1813 Columbia Rd NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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Ethiopic

Though it's outside of DC's own "Little Ethiopia", Ethiopic has established itself as the place to go for traditional Ethiopian fare in a trendy and friendly atmosphere. The owners also operate Batter Bowl Bakery in the same neighborhood. The vegetarian platter is a standout.

401 H St NE, Washington, D.C. 20002

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2941 Restaurant

It's been more than a year since the former destination restaurant retooled its concept, and 2941 has finally struck the right balance between formal and casual, and between straightforward and elaborate cooking. The picturesque setting remains, and chef Bertrand Chemel's skills are evident in such dishes as a paella soup, or broccoli raviolini with smoked pioppini mushroom. Diners can also choose from a range of price points, whether it be a snack at the bar or a full tasting menu.

2941 Fairview Park Dr, Falls Church, VA 22042

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Pupatella Neapolitan Pizza

Pupatella sets the standard for Neapolitan pies in the D.C. area. What started as a humble food cart has become one of D.C.'s most reliable sources for good pizza.

5104 Wilson Blvd, Arlington, VA 22205

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Daikaya

The stunningly-designed Daikaya is two restaurants in one. On the ground floor: Sapporo-style ramen in a bustling setting. Upstairs, an izakaya specializing in Japanese bar food, whiskeys, shochu and Japanese beer. Minibar alumnus Katusya Fukushima creates dishes like grilled avocado and okonomiyaki-style brussels sprouts with pork.

705 6th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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Ripple

This Cleveland Park restaurant is known for its impressive wine list, thoughtful cocktails and small but impressive menu. Chef Marjorie Meek-Bradley has continued the restaurant's focus on local ingredients, and takes care to make sure the food complements the beverage program.

3417 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20008

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Le Diplomate

Le Diplomate asserted itself as an instant classic when it opened in Logan Circle in 2013. Stephen Starr's first entry into the D.C. market excels at classic dishes like steak frites and skate, as well as some interesting twists like foie gras mousse. The atmosphere is loud and bustling, and the France-inspired decor is transporting.

1601 14th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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The Red Hen

Eater's 2013 Restaurant of the Year is the whole package. Bloomingdale residents and destination diners turn to the Red Hen for offal, homemade pastas, and a carefully-curated wine list (ask co-owner Sebastian Zutant about orange wine). The restaurant also boasts a stunning design from Edit Lab at Streetsense.

1822 1st St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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Ruan Thai

Some of the area's boldest Thai flavors can be found in this tiny strip mall in Wheaton. Explore dishes like the crispy watercress salad. Even traditional Thai items, like pad see ew and tom yum, taste like something new at Ruan Thai.

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11407 Amherst Ave, Silver Spring, MD 20902

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Rose's Luxury

2013's breakout restaurant represents the whole package: service, ambiance and cuisine. Aaron Silverman's experimental restaurant plays with dishes like a pork lychee salad, Vietnamese pate and bigger, family-style plates like schnitzel or brisket. The menu changes frequently, and specials are worth seeking out, from uni scrambled eggs to a buttery Carolina rice. Vegetarians eat well here, too.

717 8th St SE, Washington, D.C. 20003

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Pizzeria Orso

Chef Will Arley is one of the area's best pizza makers, but this Falls Church restaurant also has a way with Italian small plates and salads. The restaurant focuses on fine ingredients for its pizza toppings and also caters well to vegetarians and families.

400 S Maple Ave, Falls Church, VA 22046

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Kapnos

Mike Isabella's Mediterranean restaurant, new in 2013, is already successful enough to be opening a second location in Arlington. The restaurant has a fine selection of spreads, but the stars here are the roasted meats on a spit.

2201 14th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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DGS Delicatessen

This refined deli and restaurant puts out standard-bearer versions of Reuben and pastrami sandwiches, and also manages to elevate such dishes as chopped liver. DGS has a solid happy hour, a destination brunch and a quirky cocktail menu to match.

1317 Connecticut Ave NW, Washington, D.C. 20036

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Iron Gate

One of the most romantic restaurants in the city, Neighborhood Restaurant Group's Italian and Greek restaurant features cooking from Vermilion veteran Anthony Chittum. There is both a tasting menu and an a la carte option at the restaurant. Both are complemented by interesting cocktails from Jeff Faile (including the yogurt-based Nicolaki cocktail) and a Greek and Italian wine list from Brent Kroll.

1734 N St NW, Washington, D.C. 20036

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Graffiato

Mike Isabella's first venture on his own has several iconic dishes, including corn agnolotti (now being spiked with corn stock for more flavor) and pepperoni sauce. The restaurant features small plates, pizzas and Prosecco on tap. It's all now being overseen by chef de cuisine Jose Adorno.

707 6th St NW, Washington, D.C. 20001

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Compass Rose

The sheer diversity of this neighborhood restaurant's small menu is impressive, and the kitchen manages to excel at a number of different cuisines, ranging from South American to Georgian. An early standout dish is the Khachapuri, an addictive bread and cheese, pizza-like concoction. A thoughtful wine list and gorgeous design also elevate the experience.

1346 T St NW, Washington, D.C. 20009

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